Hamar men engage all five senses when a cow is slaughtered.

Smell: the instant the cow is dead, a queue of men eagerly thrust (and I mean thrust) their nose into the bowels of the bovine. I’m serious – they smell the stomach!!! They believe that inhaling the aroma/fumes/digestive juices (whew!) provides some kind of healing powers.

Touch: the virile/warrior looking young men eagerly tackle the stomach. They rub the grassy contents all over their legs. Not kidding you. Suddenly, green legged men are prancing around the fire.

Taste: many young men cannot wait for the meat to cook. They pick and eat the raw meat still clinging to the cow hide. Of course, eating raw meat is common in Ethiopia. Two of the favorite dishes here in Addis Ababa are kitfo “ground raw beef” and qurt “raw steak.” Both are considered special treats.

Sight: the men gather around the fire, watching the meat roast from indirect heat. It’s quite an art form in Hamar. They spear slabs of meat (the four quarters are still attached to the hoof) with sharp sticks, pound the sticks into the ground next to the fire so indirect heat from the flames roasts the meat.

Hear: the community begins to sign and dance (gadi-kerba, it’s called in Hamar) while the meat is cooking. The men huddle together, singing several melodic notes before the clapping, jumping and thrusting starts. The women rub their metal arm and leg bracelets together to enhance the beat with percussion. No drums are used in Hamarland, the beat of their song is provided by the clap of the hands, stomp of the feet and click of the bracelet.

P.S. I am a strict vegetarian in Ethiopia!!!